In search of the true, the least contaminated tourism in Fiji, despite the crowds set off to the east, avoiding a wide berth, and the most popular Yasawas Mamanucas archipelagos. The effect of this decision, I found myself first on the island of Ovalau, east of the "main" island country of Viti Levu.
first few days spent in the living memories of the proud history of Fiji's first capital, a quiet and rather sleepy Levuce. There are very few tourists, so the emergence of a new face is instantly recorded. At first I was generally taken as something of Carolyn, who reached the Levuki two days before me and proved to be a rich blonde.
most popular sport in Fiji is rugby. How do you like "ball" that kids play?
stopped at the oldest hotel in Fiji, called the Royal, not Colonial, as I mistakenly thought. Hotel for three generations in the hands of the same family and some elements of its equipment seem to remember opening day ...
My room in Royalu
Dining room, lounge and billiard room with a giant century-old snooker table could tell many stories of the adventurous times of colonization! One of these stories I am going to be your implicit consent.
At the beginning of the 19th Lovoni century village located within the crater of the volcano, and the notorious brutality and krwiożerczością population, visited a Protestant missionary. Chatted with the leader of a nice village, famous for its great appetite cannibal, whose very curious fountain pen pastor. If you want to win themselves a leader, a missionary gave him a pen "to hold", and stuck them to the This same hair. The conversation came to an end and a missionary without hesitation and warning he reached for his property. He did not know that touching the hair and scalp is the biggest insult here. Outraged commander grabbed the mace and smashed his head Christian then eats the unfortunate missionaries for dinner.
krwiożerczości Speaking in Pacific waters around the densely Ovalau is from sharks (mainly white-tip reef sharks), but does not affect the relaxed atmosphere: lazily swam to us during the dives, sometimes watched curiously, and often indifferent, and slowly returned rekinich to their classes. But you must admit that so amazing their proximity and abundance (during one of the dives I lost count!) Produces a thrill, even though this species poses no threat to humans. Fidżyjczycy joke that the sharks, as they Kave drink and therefore are mild. About Kavi will in a moment.
the local equivalent of the Asian Levuki songthaewów took me to small villages silane, where Seru, and Hall lead the "rural tourism", and by five children. (Their youngest son, known as Billy Boy, it looks just like Mowgli from the Jungle Book. ") Since I was the only guy lived in a surprisingly well-equipped, but otherwise rather clean, spacious cottage with an inactive term (back to cold showers.) My przemili hosts for me to cook delicious Fijian dishes, which provoked plenty of light concerns that may want podtuczyć me first, and then ... :) I met here too the taste of fresh tea leaves of lemon, for which I yearn.
On Sunday I went to church with his family. According to Fiji's Seru is a "thousand" factions of the Christian religion, and my hosts belong to the Church called the Assembly of God. Or House of God. Or something like that;) From a distance you could hear loud music and singing coming from a wooden shed located church. For the first hour gathered sang and applauded in his hand. Then he spoke a little intimidating pastor (privately brother Seru), from time to time shouting and threats reminding the faithful of God's mercy. Pastor thundered an hour, then came the time for singing, full of ecstasy, cries and tears of prayer for the sick villagers, collecting donations discreetly hidden in small brown envelopes, and after nearly three hours to disperse the signal died. We all shook hands, blessing, and so ended the morning service. Hall and her daughter chose to church again in the afternoon, but I'd prefer to test, however, hung my hammock on the beach.
Sunsets in silane
Another busy day was marked by a coconut. There I met new ways to exploit this useful plant. For applications already known to me (a young coconut juice to quench thirst, and coconut milk and cream for cooking) reached as follows: germ sprouted coconut is nutritious and easily available, and the grated flesh of mature nuts simple homemade melted coconut oil. And this is what we achieved. First, trees should be collected from mature coconuts. Then you need to be peeled from the shell and split. Machete. Then sit in a special grater and third, third, third ... Grated flesh is left out in the sun, and then squeezed it through a cloth (in our case, probably by an old petticoat ...) cream, which is cooked, stirring constantly, until a desired the final product, which is fragrant oil, and a by-product - delicious coconut "greaves". On the coconut oil can fry such as cassava (cassava) with the remainder of the dinner, but my bottle is carefully wtarta in skin and hair - my relatives and I will - with the hope for perfect results:) I would add that helped the most active, as can attest sore fingers!
For one day I went back to Levuki to a local Chinese restaurant to give taste buds a rest and to experience the luxury of warm showers at Mary's Lodge, and then had to take the tiny Caqalai (pronounced "thangalai").
Caqalai can go around in 15-20 minutes. It is surrounded by golden sandy beach and just a few - a few meters from the beginning to the beautiful coral gardens. On the island is the only "resort", run by the Methodist Church, closer to the vague, but small, number of employees and a handful of carefully selected guests. We lived in reed huts unleavened thatched. Sounds conch przywoływało us for meals and after dinner was a time for music fidżyjską (three guitars, drums and enough votes How many willing and brave) and Kave.
Caqalai and my bure on the beach
Kava is Fiji's national drink, with nothing to do with coffee. This infusion of powdered pepper root metystynowego , which looks like dirty water and it tastes a little pieprzowato, after which the tongue tingling, the kidneys are working as hired, my eyes are getting drowsy, and is getting sleepy ... Apparently after kavowej libations you can forget your own name. Regular abuse of the spoils, which to some extent explains the pervasive atmosphere of relaxation in the islands. Once kava accompanied only important family and social occasions, now becomes a serious problem with which the Government of Fiji is trying to fight.
sunsets on Caqalai and musicians wieczorni
My daily routine for Caqalai, in addition to meals and evening entertainment, was straightforward. I read a lot, I was swimming with mask and snorkel and spying fish, I made rounds around the local islands in the company of dogs, some posiedzialem in a comfortable chair on the beach, a little pobujałam in a hammock, a little piaseczku been left on the ... Holidays, ladies and gentlemen! And because roads insurer recently asked me the cost of doctor visits in Australia, decided to pay the last dive during this trip. Although, unfortunately, is still ahead of me first meeting with mantami, the latter end of the loons were worthy of crowning work (due to nervousness sisters did not describe a very close encounters of the third degree with the sharks, P)!
One of the island dogs caught poaching on a sample;)
Numerous adjacent sea snakes Caqalai maciupeńka Snake Island got its name.
At low tide can be had for a tiny Snake Island to get almost dry feet, and the return journey, sailing, spectacular coral reefs and colorful fish inhabiting them.
Totem, I think, though he did not insist on this unproven theory
After two weeks of bliss came back on the island of Viti Levu and in the last three days I stopped near the capital, SUVs. It was there, in the Raintree Lodge, distributed in a hammock in the size king size, the pond is covered with water lilies, formed a relationship with your stay in Fiji. These last days have passed me mainly on meditation on the inevitable and so close to the end of my Great Adventure, but also I was able to mobilize for action. Toured the Museum of Fiji, gdzie można obejrzeć maczugi i kamienie, na których spokojni i pokojowo nastawieni mieszkańcy Fidżi rozłupywali czaszki swoich wrogów, oraz widelce kanibalów. Milutko :) Wybrałam się również do chronionego lasu tropikalnego w Colo-i-Suva, osławionego napadami i rozbojami, gdzie nad moim bezpieczeństwem czuwał strażnik parku narodowego, uzbrojony w maczetę!
To, proszę Państwa, sławne miejsce - kręcono tu pierwsze sceny filmu "Anakonda 2" :)
Oczywiście odwiedziłam też obowiązkowo municipal market, where the eyes rejoices view of colorful vegetables and exotic fruits, and where you can enjoy a very juicy juice kumkwatów (G. and M. understand the allusion to the juicy juices!).
looked a drill and parade of the uniformed services ... I think the designers of the uniforms, according to the plan they have facilitated a mission to kill enemies with laughter!
And so ended my stay in the beautiful islands of Fiji. Came to an end, my Great Journey that I had the great pleasure to you and narrate. Thank you all for your continued support in the way, your "presence" on my blog was very important to me! See you in Poland:) Flowers and applause for the readers!
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